Here are a few tips for the installation and
maintenance of your slate flooring:
1. Determine a Starting Point
First measure and mark the center point of the two opposite
walls in the working area. The center line can be marked
by snapping a chalk line stretched between these two points.
Duplicate the procedure for the other
two walls. Use a carpenter square to verify that the two
lines have intersected at a 90 degree angle (make adjustments
if necessary). For rooms of irregular shape, simply select
the most dominant area and make your marks.
Begin laying loose tile along the center
lines allowing adequate spaces for grout. If a space of
less than half a tile remains between the last tile and
the wall, move the center line one half closer to the opposite
wall. Duplicate this procedure along the other line. Now
you plan where to begin the installation. Move the starting
line adjacent to the wall from which you wish to start the
2. Setting Your Tiles
Ensure that the sub floor is structurally sound and free
of dust, paint, oil, grease and any other substance that
may prevent or reduce the adhesion of the mortar.
Choose a slate that is calibrated or "gauged".
Gauged slate has natural cleft on one side and "grooves"
on the other. The pieces come boxed and are the same thickness.
It's very similar to laying a ceramic floor. Un-calibrated
slate (slate with natural cleft on both sides and the pieces
can vary in thickness) is very difficult and time consuming
to install, even for the most experienced installer.
Carefully clean off the surface of each
tile with water and a brush or a wet sponge to remove dust.
Apply the mortar to the concrete sub floor with the flat
side of the trowel and then comb the mortar with the notched
side of the trowel leaving ridges. Work in small sections
at one time. Prior to setting the tiles, apply mortar to
the entire back of each tile. Firmly place the tile in position
with a twisting motion so that 100% of the back of the tile
has contact with the mortar on the floor. Do not disturb
the tile work for 48 hours.
4. Sealing and Grouting
Using clean water, thoroughly scrub and clean the area to
remove any remaining loose material or dirt from the stone
surface. Take care not to disturb the bond of the tile to
the mortar. Use kneeling boards if necessary. Allow the
cleaned tile to dry. Apply a generous coat of the sealant
and let dry for 24 hours before grouting. Grout floor. Apply
second and final coat of sealant and let dry for 24 hours.
Q. Isn't granite
A. It is true that up until
a few short years ago, only the very wealthy could afford
granite. But today, with the advancements that have been made
in the quarrying, shipping and fabrication of stone, this
is no longer the case. As a general rule, there is now a wide
selection of granite that prices out very competitively with
Corian, Avonite, and other plastic solid surface material
Q. What are
the advantages of having granite?
A. Granite can withstand
heat up to 1800 degrees. Granite can be used as a cutting
board (although we don't recommend this as it will dull your
knives). For those who love to bake, granite is the perfect
prep surface for all your pastries. With your granite counter
top your kitchen will look as beautiful as the day it was
installed for many, many years to come.
Unlike plastic counter top material, (remember
the yellow Formica from the 1960's?!) granite is not a "dated"
counter top material. Natural stone has been used throughout
the centuries and has maintained "timeless beauty"
Q. Isn't granite
porous? What about sealers?
A. Granite is the next
hardest material to a diamond. There are some granites that
are more porous than others however, all of our granite countertops
are sealed during the fabrication process and again upon installation.
The rule of thumb is that when the water no longer beads up,
it's time to re-seal. For some folks that's two years, for
some it's 4-5. It depends upon usage.
Q. I've heard
that granite breeds bacteria, is that true?
A. We think that rumor
was started by the "solid surface" manufacturers.
Granite does not generate or "breed" any more or
any less bacteria than your average countertop surface
Q. How do I
clean my granite countertops?
A. Regular maintenance
of your tops is easy, just use mild soap and water. When properly
maintained, your granite tops will last a lifetime.
Q. Doesn't granite
A. No. Granite is a very
durable work surface and has proven itself over the centuries.
The only things that can scratch granite are carbide, diamond
or another piece of granite.
Q. Are the seams
A. First of all, we try
to give you the least number of seams possible. This varies
depending on the size of the slabs and your particular counter
top or island design. Seams are approximately 1/16" in
width. They are done with epoxy and mixed with stone dust
along with a color pigment to match your stone.
Q. Aren't all
A. No. There is a wide
range of colors to choose from to match any decor and compliment
any cabinetry. You can find granites with green, blue, yellow,
beige, taupe, mauve, pink, peach, gold, red, black, gray and
Q. How long
a process is it to get granite installed?
A. A deposit is required
to order your slab material. Installation is approximately
6-8 weeks from time of deposit. If you are having new cabinetry
installed, all of the new cabinets must be in place in order
for us to template. Delivery of your finished tops is approximately
7-14 business days from time of template
Q. What is slate?
A. Slate is a fine-grained rock formed by the compression of mud and stone sediment
Q. How long will slate last?
life span of slate is virtually endless. In India, there are
many buildings over 1000 years old, which still have their
original slate floors and roofs intact